Battambang is Cambodia's second-largest city  and the capital of Battambang Province. It is an elegant riverside town, home to some of the best-preserved colonial architecture in the country. Until recently Battambang was off the map for road travellers, but facilities have recently been improved and it makes a great base for visiting the nearby temples (Phnom Banon, Wat Ek Phnom...) and villages. The network of charming old French shop houses clustered along the riverbank is the real highlight here, and there are a number of wats scattered around the town. The small museum has a collection of Angkorian-era artefacts, and beyond the town there's a number of hilltop temples, yet more wats and a large lake. One of the more famous hills is Phnom Sampeau (Ship Hill) with the notorious killing caves.